TRAVEL DIARIES

Peru Holiday Journal - April 5 - 20, 2010

April 5th - We met in the Toronto airport and flew to Lima. Arrived at 11:30pm. We were met by Roberto - our GAP tour guide for the next 15 days - and drove in a GAP van [Antonio was the driver] to the Hotel Casa Andina Private Collection. It is a beautiful hotel. We drove along the recently completed Pacific Ocean waterfront beneath the cliffs in the Miraflores area. Paragliding off these cliffs is a popular sport. Weather is warm and humid.

April 6th - Late start to the morning. We had an optional walk with Roberto for about an hour. Temperature today is between 25 - 28C. There are many political posters around as there is an election in 2011 [for Federal and Municipal offices]. Roberto explained that voting is mandatory and non-voters will be fined. Each voter has a finger dipped in ink to identify that one has voted. The GAP van picked us up at the hotel and drove us to the waterfront  - a nice modern area with towers, shops, restaurants and park. We went to a family run restaurant for a Peruvian cooking demonstration for lunch.  Back to the hotel for a short rest, then walked back to the waterfront to watch the sunset and drink a Pisco Sour! Back to the hotel for an orientation meeting with Roberto. Dinner at an outdoor restaurant.

April 7th -  The GAP van transported us to the airport . Notes and observations from the van ride:
            -  9 million people in Lima. Many people moved from the Amazon during the years of “The Shining Path” groups in the 1980’s.
             -  “Combi-loco” buses are to be eliminated in 2011. These are privately owned vans that have caused traffic problems and accidents. The government will purchase these vehicles for $4,000US.
             - the spikes on the fences surrounding homes are for security. Vandalism was common during the 1960, 70 & 80’s.
              - tinted windows in cars are not allowed.
              - Alan Garcia is the current President and was elected at age 33yrs. He is into his second term.
              - street corner money exchangers are common.
              - many street and sidewalk sweepers.
              - police /security on the street corners.
              - there is no subway system in Lima.
              - the Government is trying to develop tourism in the Amazon and northern Peru [beaches in the north].
               - We flew on LAN airlines to Puerto Maldonado via Cusco. We flew over the Andes Mtns. - beautiful snow capped mountains. The highest peaks were about 4400 metres. We had a 15min, stop at the Cusco airport - it was 29C. Population in Cusco is 400,000. Population in the Puerto Maldonado area is 50,000 and is 200 km. from the border of Bolivia. When we arrived in Puerto Maldonado it was sunny and hot. We were met by Juan Carlos and Elvis and driven to their “headquarters” where we stored some of our luggage and then to our motorized canoe. This canoe brought us along the Tambopata River [we saw turtles, monkeys and caimans] for about 4 hours before reaching the Tambopata Liberator Eco Lodge [one of about 30 eco lodges in the Peru Amazon]. Had a welcome drink and went to our bungalows - lots of hot water and toilet, but no electricity. Had a slide show and walk in the dark jungle, then dinner by candlelight.

April 8th -  At the Tambopata Lodge! Slept in a raised bungalow, in beds surrounded by mosquito nets. Up at 5:30am for breakfast at 6am - still dark. We were transported by canoe up the Tambopata River to the start of a Nature Walk. We walked through the jungle for about 2 hours and were led by Juan Carlos and Elvis. Along the way, we saw colourful butterflies, bats, birds and monkeys. The monkeys were jumping from tree to tree - they can jump two meters. We also saw a fresh Jaguar paw print - but no jaguar! We saw many ant trails and each ant was carrying  leaves that were much bigger than themselves!. We got into another canoe and paddled around Lake Condenado. We landed again and walked to the second largest tree in the world - about 350 years old. Trees in the Amazon grow all year long so do not have the internal rings that can be counted. We had our picture taken among the roots of the tree. Called a “telephone tree”  and the roots are  hallow. We walked to the canoe and rode back to the lodge for lunch. It was a sunny and humid morning - about 28C. Mid afternoon we went by canoe to a farmer’s property - many hectares of fruit trees [ bananas, papayas, and “apple custard”], chickens and three pigs. This family [a young couple and their two year old son] live in a one room house and have a kitchen in a separate shelter. After we came back to the lodge, we had a talk about caiman and then went in the canoe and along the river to view some caimans who were basking along the river bank, in the dark. Elvis had a big flashlight and helped with finding them.

April 9th- We took the river boat from the lodge back to Puerto Maldonado where we picked up our suitcases. It was sunny and humid. We bought Inca Colas and  drove around the town. Saw the main plaza, a dedication plaque to a Peruvian leader who fought during the war with Chile in the late 1880’s, and saw where the Tambopata and Inambara Rivers meet.
  - The minimum wage in Peru is 900 soles a month for 40 hours a week work [these are government workers].
   - 33% of the world’s cocaine supply comes from Peru.
    -The miners were staging intermittent strikes but we did not encounter them - however, there were a lot of military men with weapons around the airport just in case. We took a plane to Cusco. It is 3350 meters above sea level. There were 13 Inca rulers [from 1100 until the Spanish conquest in 1533]and Pachacutec was the 9th.[and most influential with expansion of territory].  Legend has it that the first Inca leader was born from the sun and his wife from Lake Titicaca. We took a taxi to the Casa Andina Hotel about two blocks from the town plaza. This hotel is lovely with Inca architecture and decorations - where as the Casa Andina in Lima had modern architecture. Roberto’s wife met us in the reception room and gave us bags of fruit and cocoa leaf tea. We rested for a few hours and then walked with Roberto to the “Plaza des Armes”. This plaza is surrounded by colonial churches and cathedrals, restaurants, bars and souvenir shops. There are 21 Roman Catholic churches in Cusco. 90% of the population is R.C. We  encountered many street vendors! Betty was in a commercial for canned oxygen. We had dinner in an Italian Restaurant and then walked the corridor of Inca building stones. There are 1 million people in the Cusco area, and 400,000 in the city. The Cusco flag has rainbow colours.

April 10th -  Met Alberto who is our guide for today. We toured the Convent de Santiago which is on the site of an Inca sun temple which was started in 1200BC.  1950 UNESCO recognition. Remnants of the temple were impressive - huge stone blocks all precisely fitted, slanted walls with irregular pattern and niches to protect the structure during an earthquake. There were three buildings. There was a double entrance frame - signifying a sacred place - and alters for idols. Tuberous areas on the stones= ?a mark of identification or a method of hauling the stones?  Only important people lived in Cusco during the Inca era - about 150,000 residents. The streets were very narrow. The Spanish came down from the mountains and discovered Cusco.
Drove in van to Sacayhuaman - a pre-Inca and Inca Temple of the Sun. 3740 metres above sea level. It was a religious site for the Incas, also a site of battles. “Lightening” fortress pattern of stones protecting the site. Largest rock weighs 150 tons. The stones were put on “stretchers” for transport. We each participated in a ceremony of blessing done by a Shaman - with Inca cross, cocoa leaves, feathers and holy water.
Drove to Kenko - another Inca temple site. This site is a natural limestone formation  with a carved tunnel and an altar. We speculated as to it’s purpose - there could have been a statue on the alter and it was taken by the Spanish, or the alter could have been a place for surgical procedures as the stone altar in the cave was colder than outside, or it could have been for religious ceremonies. The whole site was surrounded by huge carved stones. [The Spanish had covered this wall with earth and the wall had recently been discovered and unearthed.]
Drove to Tambomachay - an Inca “temple of the Water”. This site has four terraces with aqueducts flowing with clear water from underground springs. Across from the aqueduct terraces was a hill - from the top of the hill one had a view of Cusco. This could have been a communication site with silver and gold reflecting the sun with a communication code, or using a conch shell for messages.
During our drive back to Cusco, we observed bull statues on the roofs on the houses - these are gifts given to new homes and signifying good luck and prosperity.
While on the Inca sites, there was a discussion about the practice of human sacrifices as there have been some found in the Andes in recent years. Alberto explained that this was done only during time of natural disasters. The age of the recently discovered human sacrifices was determined to be during a time of drought. Animals were more often sacrificed in order to please the gods.
We had a group dinner and were entertained by a local band and dancers.

April 11th - We travelled with Danielle to Planeterra - a GAP women’s weaving co-operative. We had a weaving “lesson”. Our visit was appreciated as this was their first showing since the flooding that destroyed their weaving equipment, shelter and many homes in the area. [The equivalent of three months of rain fell in three days the end of January this year]. We spent some time viewing and purchasing their handicrafts. They treated us to corn on the cob and gave each of us a little change purse.
We had an explanation about the Eucalyptus trees that are plentiful - they were introduced by the English and are from Australia. The trees grow quickly and are used for cooking wood. However, they are crowding out the trees that are natural to the area. This wood is commonly used in pizza ovens in restaurants but this practice will be banned in 2012 to protect the environment. The natural trees were mahogany and cedar, now there are no mahogany trees and few cedar trees.
We toured a silversmith cooperative. Many beautiful pieces of jewellery and ornaments were displayed in their store.
 
April 12th - drove through the Urubamba Valley also called The Sacred Valley of the Incas. Passed farm land along the valley bottom and naturally terraced farm land on the hills. Could view Mt. Veronica  [5800m. elevation] in the distance. It is the highest mountain in the Peruvian Andes. [The Andes go from Equator to Chile]. The corn grown in this valley is high in iron. Artichokes are grown here. Also 3,000 varieties of potatoes. The farm land outside of Cusco produces vegetables for subsistence but along the Sacred Valley, the vegetables are brought to market in Cusco. There are two harvests a year in this valley.
- Quechua is the main language. 90% of the population is Roman Catholic but they are not “pure” as they still practice Inca rituals. Houses are made of mud bricks. Bull ornaments on the roof. The towns have electricity. The blue buildings are health clinics. Peru is the second largest [after Columbia] producer of the world’s cocaine. Cocoa leaf function - used for tea, anaesthesia and fortune telling. Used since 3000BC. It’s effects are reduced hunger and increased energy. It has been a sacred plant. The Incas would keep it in their cheeks.
- We toured Chinchero, an active Inca Village surrounded by natural and Inca made terraces. This community produces handicrafts and weaving items. It is at 3762m. above sea level. We went into a church that was built on Inca foundations.
- On the way to Moray, we stopped at a view point and saw Mt. Veronica again, also on the hillside beside the road, we saw Inca storage shelters. At about 4000m. they provided a cool environment for storing produce. We passed large cactus plants [Agaby?]. The fibre from these plant leaves were used by the Incas to make thread and fishing nets. Inca villages were developed 35 to 45Km. apart - this was the distance that a lama with a load could travel in a day.
- We took a dirt rural road to Moray. This Inca site was an experimental terraced site for crops. The bottom terrace is 5C. cooler than the top terrace. There was a water drainage canal between the terraces. All the earth for the terraces was brought up from the valley. The terraces consisted of a bottom layer of larger rocks, then a layer of smaller rocks, then earth, then top soil.
- We stopped for a buffet lunch at a beautiful hacienda. On the grounds were Vicunas [non-domesticated animals with long necks], Lamas, and Alpacas.
- The area around Urubamba has a lot of flooding and many homes were destroyed. Red plastic balls on polls = “Chicha” is sold here. This drink is 5% alcohol and is made from corn - from Inca time until now.
-There were big hills on either side of the Urubamba Valley with natural terraces that are farmed. Some of the hills had graffiti [political messages].
- The Puma is a symbol of power - there was a large statue in Calca.
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We toured Pisac, an Inca site. There are three parts to this site - an agricultural part, a spiritual area [finely finishes homes where priests and the elite lived], and the community [not as finely finished]. We saw burial holes in the cliffs, terraces [big stones transported 2km.], curved walls, and a framed entrance to the spiritual part. The walls were built inward to withstand an earthquake. We were entertained by a flute musician who is from the Andes. We got to our hotel in San Agustin late afternoon.  This site has a hotel and church [not routinely used but well-to-do families can use the church for wedding, etc.]. We had dinner in the hotel restaurant and had a campfire after and Roberto explained the constellations and we sang campfire songs.

April 13th - drove to the active Inca town of Ollantaytambo. On the way, we stopped at a chichi “pub”. We played a game of “sapo” and had an explanation of how the corn and strawberry drinks are made. In Ollantaytambo, we walked around the town and visited in a home that had guinea pigs and Inca artefacts. On the slopes above the village, we walked up terraces which were built into a mountainside. More massive stones. This site served as a temple and a fortress. We stood in front of a stone wall that had an Inca cross etched in it.
- we boarded the train at KM.82 and 20km. from Machu Picchu. The train followed the Urubamba River. Erosion and destruction from the heavy rains were evident. We spent the night at Hatuchay Tower Hotel in Aguas Calientes. For dinner, we went to a restaurant in the town and some of our group sampled cooked guinea pig!

April 14th - up at 4:30am to board a bus to take us to the sacred site of Machu Picchu at 5:30. Drove uphill along a switch - backed road. Roberto led us to a plateau in the South Agriculture sector and past the Guard house. We sat on a terraced plateau waiting for the sun to break through the cloud. When we got there, it was light out but there was no visibility due to the clouds. Roberto suggested we blow the clouds away and it worked! The sun broke through the clouds and the beautiful site was revealed. There are 286 steps in Machu Picchu.
- when the Incas were forced to leave Machu Picchu, they destroyed the thatched roofs knowing that Nature in the rainforest would cover the stone structures, hiding them. The site was hidden by vegetation within two months. It was not found by the Spanish for 100yr. When they did discover the site and found gold and silver artefacts, they did not notify the Spanish crown as they wanted to keep the treasures for themselves.
- we met our guide Backner in the afternoon. We had a fascinating tour and explanation around the Astronomical Observatory, Temple of the Three Windows, Main Square, the Royal Enclosure and Temple of the Condor. Each residential home housed 8 - 10 persons. Some homes had a upstairs level with their own doorway. The boys at age 15 were sent to another Inca community to live. The women stayed and carried on the traditions of the community. Some of us walked to the Ceremonial Rock at the North entrance.
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We spent out second night at the Hatuchay Tower Hotel and had dinner in the hotel restaurant.

April 15th - We took the train from Aquas Calientes to Ollantaytambo. The GAP van had a flat tire so Roberta got two taxis’ and we drove to the van which was now repaired. We drove by Quinoa plants that had a red flower. In Urubamba, we toured a pottery studio. Drove around town to find a pastry shop - Roberto found one and we had a good picnic lunch on the bus. On the route back to Cusco, we stopped at our last photo opportunity overlooking the Sacred Valley. Back to the Casa Andina [Private Collection] in Cusco. After we settled in, we took the van to tour the House of the People of the Sun and toured the centre for underprivileged, neglected and challenged children. Dinner in an Italian restaurant. Robert’s wife and daughter helped us celebrate Carol’s birthday.

April 16th - We drove from Cusco to Puno - from 9am to 5pm. The first few hours were along hills and curves - then we were driving on plateaus. There is good top soil in the area so agriculture is good, and Roberto said there was “good energy” in the area.  Aymara is the language spoken as we got closer to Puno. It is the third most common language in Peru - after Spanish and Quechua. This area wants to be an independent nation.
- we passed by collapsed home resulting from the heavy rain and flooding. The homes were made of adobe /mud bricks. Families are now living in a “tent city”.
- in 1780 Tupac Amaru started an Inca rebellion against the Spanish. In 1821, Peru gained independence.
- we stopped in San Pablo for a break and for shopping at a handicraft market. Also had lamas and alpacas grazing on the lawn.
- as we entered the Aymara country there were blue outhouses as the homes do not have indoor plumbing.
- As we drove above 3900m. the Holy River became very small. The highest point in the mountain pass was 4380m. Altiplano is the name of the plateau and mountains.
- excellent alpaca territory and we saw large herds. Golden potatoes grow here.
- as we entered the high plateaus, the valley widened. There were three toll stops on the highway. The highway goes to Bolivia. The vegetation was straw which was good for thatched roofs and hanging bridges. We passed bald mountains that Roberto said were snow capped 10 yrs. ago. He said Peru and Bolivia will suffer most with global warming. Bolivia is the poorest country in South America. Peru sells fresh produce to Bolivia, Bolivia sells fake electronics.
- we passed by a Century plant/cactus - it blooms every 100 yrs.
- we drove through Juliaca. A city of 1 million people. They manufacture leather, textiles, water bottles [fresh water 2 metres underground] and imitation goods i.e. Marlboro cigarettes, North Face, etc.  There is easy access to Bolivia to purchase cheap goods as there is no control at the border. 20% of the world’s cocaine comes from this area.
- we arrived at our hotel in Puno - Casa Andina - another nice hotel. We repacked for an overnight stay tomorrow and had dinner in the hotel restaurant.

April 17th - We met Marco our guide. And drove in “limousines” [a bicycle with a seat in front and with a canopy on top] to the market. Shopped for our home stay family. Walked to the pier and got on a boat. Weather was warm with sun and some clouds. Marco gave us an orientation.
- Titicaca = Puma + rock. The reeds in the lake purify the water. The reeds feed cattle. There are about 113 islands on the lake, but just a few are large enough to have people. Landed at Taquilo Island [population2,000] and walked uphill on a wide rock path to the centre plaza. Went to the craft centre then walked downhill to a local home and had lunch [ soup, trout and mint & cocoa tea]. We had an explanation of the traditional dress for the island. The men have an intriguing custom with their hats - they knit their own hats and wear red hats if they are married, an red and white hats if they are single and the way they place the tassels of the hats indicate marital availability. We were treated to some traditional dancing and a demonstration of a plant that is used for soap after grinding and combining it with water. The soap was used to wash dirty wool.
- Short boat ride to Amantani Island where we were greeted by our home stay “mamas”. We had a long walk up to the centre of the island and to our homes. The homes are made of adobe walls, mud floor, eucalyptus ceiling beams and aluminium roof. There was a small wood stove about a foot off the floor with two outlets for cooking pots. We assisted with gathering vegetables and helping with dinner preparations. For dinner we had fried Feta cheese, two kinds of potatoes and mint tea. After dinner, we were dressed in traditional costumes of the island  and attended a dance.

April 18th - We had instant coffee, pancakes and jam for breakfast. All the host mamas walked us out to the boat - knitting all the way. Our boat took us to the Uros islands - floating islands made of reeds. Around 1100AD. people from central Peru came to the lake to avoid battles. They were farmers but became fishermen until all the natural fish of the lake were depleted. Now their industry is tourism. We stopped at one of the smaller islands and had a demonstration on how the islands are made. This island has 8 families living on it. There are now 60 island with a population of 1600. There is one elementary school for the islands,  when the children are older, they go to Puno for school. Some of the people live in Puno and go to the islands to work. Each home has a solar panel [a gift from President Fujimori]. Crafts - made by the island people - were for sale. We went on a reed boat ride to view another island. Back to Puno and a picnic lunch on our boat.

April 19th - Bus from Puno to Juliaca for a plane ride across the Andes and to Lima, the “City of Kings” - founded by Francisco Pizarro. Lots of people waiting for “combis” to get to work in Juliaca. Children walking along the highway on their way to school. To encourage attendance at school, the government gives 100 soles a month to each family if the child has 100% attendance. Lima has a population of 9 million and has 99% humidity with only 2” of mist falling in a year. We had a bus ride to Lima Centre. There is a French influence to the architecture with many buildings being restored to keep the original look. We visited the Plaza de Armas, walked by the Presidential Palace, the Archbishop’s Palace with it’s jealousy balconies, had lunch in a pastry shop and toured the Church of St. Francis - this church is an active Franciscan  monastery. We walked through tunnels to the catacombs and saw the church library and choir loft. We toured a museum that houses a collection of pre-Columbian ceramics and gold and silver objects as well as some erotic sculptures.
We had a final group dinner in an open restaurant beside a recently discovered pyramid. This pyramid was a spiritual temple and there are seven of these in Lima.
Our journey ended at the Lima airport and a 1:40am flight to Toronto.

Journal by: Donna M., Calgary, AB