TRAVEL DIARIES

Journal of Peru Trip - April 5 - 21, 2010

April 5, 2010

Limo Service had me at airport by 12:30 pm - security was a breeze. Upon arrival we were transported to our hotel in Lima (Mila Flores) – the Casa Andina Private Collection.  Very nice – lots of pillows & a comfy bed.  It was dark coming in, but could see the amazingly high bluffs (razor straight) on the Costa Verde.  Good thing they only have 2” of rainfall per year.  Our guide from Gap Tours is Roberto Manco.

April 6, 2010

Breakfast included at the hotel. Toured around Mila Flores and had lunch at a local restaurant.  They showed up how they made ceviche and several other local dishes.  For me, it was the best meal of the trip. (ceviche, Arroz con Mariscos, Causa de pulpo, Chicharron Mixto, and Choros a la Chalaca)  We then toured the Barranco District and the Lover’s Bridge on foot. After busing back to the hotel area, we walked around J.F. Kennedy Square and checked out the local artisans market.  Then walked down to the ocean where we had a couple of Pisco Sours and waited for the sunset.  Noticed that teens aren’t covered in tattoos and piercings and the smoking was never an issue – unless tourists were in the area. 

Notes:   4000 varieties of potatoes; quinoa was the food of the Inca Gods; guinea pigs are a specialty along with alpaca meat; and coca leaves help with high altitude (either in tea or just chewed)

April 7, 2010

Early flight to Puerto Maldonado with a brief stopover in Cusco. Bus then boat to eco lodge.  There was a checkpoint with a very step walkway and no railings along the route – several of the gals had problems negotiating this. On route, the guides spotted a variety of wildlife including: camien, capybara (huge grass eaters), turtles with butterflies on them (drinking the sweat from their eyes), monkeys.  The cabins were quaint – no hydro but a washroom with shower. (solar heat) Had taken most of the day to get to the lodge.

Met the guides (Elvis and Juan Carlos) at 6:30 pm for an informative slide show and walk through the forest behind the main lodge. Saw lots of spiders, bugs etc.

April 9, 2010

Up at 5:30 am for breakfast at 6 am.  Slept quite well. Short boat ride to forest trail – then walked for 1- ½ to 2 ½ hrs through forested area with guides.  Walked to Lake Condemned (vegetation taking over – 50 years left, more or less)  While we did not see lots of larger animals, we did see a number of tracks in the mud, including: jaguar, ocelot, and tapir.  We saw a large variety of interesting moths & butterflies, bats, toads, etc.

Notes:   tree frogs can jump 3 meters, strangled fig trees, tallest trees were 60 meters high and approx 350-400 years old; forest being cut for marginal farming – an issue;  not much exporting – too costly to transport; mining & logging also present problems; potential for cottage industries to make & transport prepared products.

Boated back to lodge around 1 ish.  Really hot & humid – soaked right through.  Had a shower and joined the others for a cold beer.

Met again at 6 pm with guides for a seminar on camiens (alligator family).  Short round u-shaped noses as opposed to the pointed noses of the crocodiles. No crocs in Amazon. Camiens are a smaller variety. Following the seminar, we headed out in the boat with Elvis, in the dark, to spot camiens. Elvis had a huge spotlight which he shone from shore to shore – it was amazing how quickly & easily he spotted them. We saw a number of camiens of various sizes, both in the water and out of the water. They would just sit there and we were able to get quite close to them.  On the way back, Elvis turned the boat off and we just sat there very quietly, listening to the sounds of the jungle and watching the star lit sky.

April 9, 2010

Up at 6:30 am, breakfast at 7 am and on boat back to Puerto Maldonado.  Then bus to airport for 11:30 am flight to Cusco.  Arrived in Cusco just after noon and bused to Casa Andina Private Collection. Built in an Inca building – had great atmosphere and interesting black & white photos of Cusco lined the hallways.  Lovely courtyards with small cozy places to sit.   Once we arrived we had several cups of coca tea and then laid down for a couple of hours to adjust to the altitude.  Brief wall through city square which is surrounded by Catholic churches – many of them build on the top of Inca temples.  Overall an interesting blend of architecture.  Churches are vintage 1600-1700. Cusco lies in a bowl at the base of the mountains.  Really like Cusco despite it being quite touristy – it reeks of history and sacred stories. 

Notes:   Inca – 3 worlds (Condor-Puma-Snake); high altitude had the affect of things moving in and out of focus – would come and go; alpaca (salty like sardines).

After dinner we walked around one of the large temples in the square admiring the integrity of the Inca buildings.  Back early & took it easy. 

April 10, 2010

Our guide for the City tour was Alvero (Al). Checked out the downtown church – which had been built over top of an Inca building. Saw how the Incas constructed the building using a uniblock technique.  Large openings were left in the structures to withstand gravity and the shock of the earthquake tremors. Many previous pre-Inca societies had developed some of the techniques that we were now seeing in the Inca constructed building.  The Incas were masters of improving these techniques – particularly in the areas of hydrology, engineering and urban planning.

When the Spanish arrived, they wanted to show their power and destroyed many of the Inca buildings or build over top of them. All these years later, the Inca buildings are still standing.  Visited Saqsayhusnan, Kenko, Pacaccupuna and Kariarcha.  Guide was very proud of his heritage and conciliatory towards the Spanish.

Was not feeling well in the evening – skipped dinner.

Sunday April 11, 2010

After breakfast around 9ish headed by bus to the women’s weaving workshop.  Picked up Danielle from Gap on the way.  She talked about all the Gap projects and how Gap had taught the women to weave, assisted in building the market area, taught them English and how to demonstrate & sell their wares. We arrived there around 10:30 am Their village had been taken out by the mud slide – particularly the market area.  Their husbands were porters on the Inca trail and they had not worked since the end of January – tough times.

We were the first group through – they were so happy to see us – they were in tears…..so were many of us. A very touching moment.  They hugged us and brought us out their clothes to wear. They then taught us how to spin the wool, dye it and weave it.  Great experience in getting to know them a little better and their culture. Gap is doing some great work there.  We then made purchases.  All colours were made from natural elements – plants, leaves, dead bugs etc. They boil the dyed wool for various amounts of time, and then dry them out.  Colours are vibrant, work is tedious – taking about 1 ½ wks to weave a large piece which would sell for $70-$75.  After much hugging & kissing, we left around 12:30 pm to drop off our purchases at the hotel.  Then we walked to the square to see the Sunday parade. Each Sunday they celebrate birthdays, and anniversaries of the past week both individual and business. I was blown away by the sheer number of people (families) in attendance. The costumes were brightly coloured & elaborate, the music lively, the atmosphere fun.  What a wonderful way to keep families doing things together and celebrating the important things in life together.  A great way to keep tradition and culture alive. Couldn’t help but thing it is sad our culture gets so busy that we miss out on these simple but important parts of life.

We ate lunch in the square and then headed off to the jewellery co-op which is owned by a local shaman. He oversees the process and blesses each piece. Amazingly they trusted us to take the jewellery with us and leave the money at the Hotel desk!

We regrouped later for dinner and went to a buffet that featured music and dances from all areas of Peru. (tried guinea pig & alpaca)  The forest dancers were amazing – particularly their costumes. I fell into bed exhausted again.   A truly amazing day – the time spent at the weaving community will stay with me forever.

April 12, 2010

Left the hotel around 7:30 am to head to the Sacred Valley.  On the way we visited several Inca sites.  The views from here of the Inca terraces and storage areas were amazing. We visited the Catholic Church built in 1700.  As we had been advised – the artist’s drawings depicted Catholic scenes but with small Inca details inserted.  Although outwardly they are practicing Catholics, they still cling to their Inca heritage and belief system. Incas believe their spirit returns to earth again in a different vessel – whether that be human, animal or plant and that the mighty Incas will rise again in the future.

Some of the terracing took the form of amazing labyrinths with some rocks being transported from quarries that were 2-5 kms away. – they wanted to use the best & hardest rock available for their constructions – particularly the ceremonial buildings and alters.  There were always three parts to the Inca developments: 1) agriculture 2) urban and 3) religious. It was their strong religious beliefs that literally moved mountains.

Our final stop of the day was in the market in Pisac – where I purchased a number of pieces of silver jewellery.  Then off to the hotel which was an old monastery.  Interesting building, lovely gardens but food and service not as good as previously experienced. After dinner, Roberto (bless his soul) had them light a bonfire and he told us about all the star constellations and what they had meant to the Inca culture.

More and more I am feeling conflicted by the affects that tourism could have on Peru.  Unless it is well managed it stands to negatively impact their incredible value system.  The country side is spectacular, their history & culture rich, their family values and sense of humour & integrity are strong.  They believe strongly in family and community and taking care of each other.  Western values could negatively impact this balance.

April 13, 2010

Caught a break today – didn’t have to meet Roberto until 9:30 am @ which time we walked around the agricultural area surrounding the monastery to learn of its history..  This was the first day we have woken up to cloudy skies but by the time we left the hotel – the skies had cleared. (the Sunshine Ladies come through again!)

Then we were off to a ‘chicheria’ to sample corn beer and strawberry corn beer. We played this great toss game there with twelve men which were tossed through holes to accumulate points. We came in last but it was lots of fun!  Bonnie bought a set to take  back home to her cottage.

We then headed to Ollanytambo for a walking tour of an active Inca city.  It was amazing the streets and walls were still in tact. We visited with a native lady who lived in one of the Inca dwellings.  She raised guinea pigs and created artwork for selling to tourists.  Artifacts & bones lined her wall – they had been found during digging up some of the local structures.

We had lunch at a local restaurant owned by a Chilean family.  We then caught the train to Machu Pichu and our hotel @ 4:10 pm and arrived at 6:30 pm  We walked into town for an early dinner – knowing that we would need our energy for the day ahead.  I had lamb and we all sampled some guinea pig.  Bed early so we could get up at 4:15 am to be there for sunrise the next day.

April 14th

Up before 4: 30 am to have breakfast and get the bus to Machu Pichu.  As it got light it was really foggy – didn’t think we would see anything! Roberto has us walk to the top of the mountain behind the gatehouse and sit quietly on the wet grass.  He advised we should take photos 2-3 minutes apart.  It was very foggy but every once in a while, a part of the mountain would peak through.  I was very dubious that it would clear and that we would see the sunrise.  And then it happened! Every so slowly the sun burnt the fog away and suddenedly Machu Pichu was revealed in all its glory.  It took my breathe away.  What a spectacular sight.   Totally magically….totally mystical.  Roberto took us around until the guide arrived.  The guide had a fabulous voice and again was incredibly knowledgeable.  We toured through the ruins for several hours – stopping along the way so he could point things out.  (Inca’s were short – about 5’5” and lived to be over 80 before the Spanish arrived – bringing diseases with them)  The Spanish never found Machu Pichu (thank god) but the American historian Hiriam Bingham (1911) takes credit for its discovery.  Unfortunately he was a historian and not an archeologist and so there was a certain amount of damage done to the structures during this period. As the story goes…he relentlessly badgered the locals for information and that in frustration they finally told the ‘gringo’ all sorts of stories that were not true, so that he would leave them alone.  The guide refered to the Americans as the ‘incapables’.

Machu Pichu couldn’t grow enough food for their settlement of 1000+, so they traded with other Inca settlements that were spread about 35 kms apart. Inca areas were ingeniously divided into quadrants with each supporting the other. The quadrant system still works today. Some buildings have been restored with thatched roofs (about 70% original and 30% restored)  The views are nothing less than spectacular.  Difficult to feel the sacred element with so many tourists around but easy to picture how their lives must have been once you see the site.

In the morning the heavy mist – it was a special moment as the fog cleared off. You cannot take enough photos and each perspective offers some new amazing angle.   While some returned to the hotel, I chose to stay and watch the sunset. It was melodramatic compared to the sunrise – it was just great to sit there peacefully viewing the landscape. We got the but back to the hotel at 5 pm, had dinner at 7:30 and in bed by 9 pm – slept like a log.

April 15th and 16th

Missed journaling these days.

April 17th

Boated out to an island on Lake Titachaca. It was a huge uphill trek with many, many stairs for about 1 ½ hr.  The scenery was lovely and lots of great photo opps.  Locals were dressed in colourful Andulusia clothing – reflection of their Spanish heritage. Most wanted money to take their photos.   Conflicted again as to the affects of tourism on there remote villages and their lifestyles. They had both a public and high school on the island with the teachers coming in from Puno.  (Puno population 40,000)  It was explained to us that the standard of education on the islands was not sufficient enough to get the kids into college or university and that if they wanted to pursue higher education it was necessary for the kids to go to larger centre and live with friends or relatives to get their schooling.

In more remote areas where there are no schools, the government pays $100/month/child to attend school in Puno by voucher after attendance in verified.  Hence the long line-ups at banks that we have seen.

We stopped at the local square and an Artisans’ shop where I purchased my red hat for $35.  We ate on a hilltop outside and had a choice of either trout (reports said the fish was wonderful) and omelette – which I personally had – with a cold beer. They then taught us about the native plants(including lupin – which produces a tasty bean there) and then the band started and we all danced together. 

After lunch, we headed back to the boat for an hour ride to our host island.  We were met at the port by Fanny (8 yrs old) instead of a Mama, who took us to tour homestay location.  It was interesting but really awkward at the same time not being able to communicate with them. Our family was the grandparents of Fanny and looked quite aged.  The wife did not seem at all interested in the tourism aspect. The husband tried his best to converse with us – he knew a couple of English words and some Spanish.  Luckily Bonnie had brought her Spanish dictionary with her so we were able to ‘talk’ about vegetables and families – otherwise it would have been very quiet.  The wife spent her time in front of the fireplace cooking.  The room was very smoky.  Mostly the three of them huddled near the fire chattering away to each other – it was obvious they were all very close. After dinner (which we were served at a table with utensils), we were sent to our room. We really didn’t have a clue what was happening.  Then at 8 pm – the wife brought us clothes, dressed us up and led us off to the community for the dance. I could have easily crawled into bed instead but off we went where the wife begrudgingly danced with us until we asked to come back home.  Fanny was enjoying the dancing.  Interestingly enough she was the only child there and no men other than Roberto. We were in bed by 9:30 pm

April 19th

Up before 5 am as I had to go to the bathroom.  As Bonnie was unable to stand up in the room (kind of like Alice in Wonderland for her) we stayed in bed until breakfast was ready at 7 am  It was chilly but not really all that cold – although Bonnie had felt it cold during the night. (no body fat) The doorways and ceilings in the building were very low – presumably because everyone was so short.  I’m not sure they understood what maple syrup was all about – even though Bonnie gave them each a taste.  Hopefully they didn’t eat the soap I brought!

Our Grandma brought us hot water in a basin to wash with but we had already cleaned up and I think both us of were anxious to be on our way.  Breakfast was 2 pancakes with strawberry jam – really tasty. Afterward, we said our goodbye, took some photos and Fanny walked us back down to the port.  Too bad we couldn’t communicate with her – I would have loved to chat with her.

We all met up at the boat launch at 8:10 am and were soon on our way to the Eros Islands (Reed Islands).  We took one of the Mamas with us on the boat who had a dental emergency and didn’t look very well.

It was a lovely sunny day and we sat outside for the 2 hr trip to the Eros Islands. The women were waiting for us to sing us ashore. The islands were amazing – like landing in a fairytale place.  And in fact, in the Lima airport I bumped into two young American girls who were convinced the islands were a movie set! 

The locals islanders gave us a seminar – that was quite well done – which was translated for us from Spanish to English by our guide. They cut square bundles of roots about 1 metre by 1 metre which they lashed together with rope and anchored them into the bottom of the lake.  The roots in the bundles would continue to grow and provide further support to the ‘basement’.  They would then dry and cut reeds –again about 1 metre in depth for the top of the island.  They also used the reeds for their houses, boats, fuel and food –simply amazing. In all there were 1600 inhabitants living on 60 islands.  On the particular island we were on – there were 8 households.  If there was a dispute that couldn’t be resolved – they merely cut you  adrift and you formed your own island! At first they had resisted tourism as they felt that the cameras were stealing their souls but now they embraced it as they needed a source of income to send their kids to school in Puno so that they could then attend college or university. The houses had solar panels which had been supplied by the gov’t of Peru following a deadly fire from candles that took the lives of four kids.

We took a boat ride in the two storey reed boats – they were paddled by two men.  No wonder the men were so skinny and not the women!

When we boarded our boat to leave – Roberto had arranged for a picnic lunch onboard. We returned to Puno where we got stuck in a massive traffic jam as the university kids had just completed their entrance tryout exams and there were thousands in the streets. Complete gridlock.  But true to form, our guide and superhero Roberto leapt of the bus and assisted the police in directing traffic and once again saved the day!

We headed to the hotel – had a quick shower and back into Puno for a little shopping before dinner. Saw the square, watched some kids doing some Bolivian fight dancing – similar in looks to our break dancing. Headed back to the hotel for a 6 pm dinner and to view Bonnie’s slide show. (great idea)

April 20th

Off to Lima today.  On the bus outside the hotel we had to come to a halt as there were three pigs in the middle of the road.  (I’ll miss this once we get back home!)

Notes:  80% of the world’s crops can be grown in Peru due to the biodiversity; some rural kids are walking 40+ minutes to school; around Jualico are lowland plateaus that are well suited to agriculture and farming.

The flight back over the Andes offered some amazing views.

Journal by: Karen W., Orillia, ON