TRAVEL DIARIES

Ireland May 2008 - My Travel Journal.
By Elaine Bisson

May 1, 2008 - Our Irish adventure began with a visit to Helen Dillon's garden. Helen is an Irish woman who is well known for her fabulous back yard garden. A haven for gardeners and photographers, the garden is located at 45 Sandford Road, Ranelagh, Dublin 6, Ireland. To learn more about this little bit of heaven visit http://www.dillongarden.com/

Our first evening in Dublin was celebrated at the Brazenhead Pub. It was magic! We hiked up to the third floor of the oldest pub in Ireland and we were seated in a private dining room. Our storyteller Johnny entertained us all evening. He started off by telling us about the history of Ireland and the prosperity they enjoyed, as a result of their potato crops. His stories continued with tales of the potato blight that resulted in the death of countless Irishmen, as well as the emigration that followed. The next round of tales told us about fairies - the trooper fairies and the solitary fairies. (Fairies are thought to be fallen angels.)

As I sat chatting with Lynn, Marlene, Pauline and Sue we dined on fish cakes, Irish stew and Guinness. Throughout the evening we listened to captivating stories from the most wonderful story teller. I kept pinching myself as reminder - yes Elaine, it's true - you really are here!

May 2, 2008 - Breakfast selection was amazing! Our full Irish breakfast consisted of eggs, ham, bacon, sausage, blood pudding, beans, baked tomatoes, toast, pastries, juice, etc. Before boarding our coach, I took a stroll near the hotel and found the most amazing garden. A life sized statue of Oscar Wilde was perched on a gigantic rock. A lovely path circled the park - what a treasure, right in the heart of downtown Dublin!

At 9am we were off to the Ballyknocken House and Cookery School in Ashford, County Wicklow. Renowned Irish Chef, Katherine Fulvio taught us her secrets for the perfect scone and reminded us to avoid overcooking! Shortly after the lesson, we were treated to hot scones, home-made rhubarb jam and of course - tea! For more information visit: http://www.ballyknocken.com/

That afternoon we arrived in Waterford by mid afternoon. A quaint little town, it reminded me a little of Lunenburg, N.S. with the multi coloured buildings along the waterfront. At 3 pm we toured the Waterford Crystal Factory. http://www.waterford.ie/default_flash.asp Standards are exceptionally high at Waterford. They do not sell "seconds" and each piece is carefully inspected prior to reaching the sales floor. If a crystal piece does not "make the cut", it is smashed by the inspector. Much to our dismay, we watched vessel after vessel being smashed by the inspector whose mission was perfection. (we would have been happy to take a few pieces off their hands, in spite of the odd imperfection, but no such luck!)

May 3, 2008 - Our first stop was Anne Groves Garden. This was an out of the way little piece of paradise. We were met by Val, the master of the house and sole gardener. Although early in the season, it was still beautiful with a number of shrubs and trees in full bloom - pinks, whites and yellows. I especially enjoyed the water garden -the plants were enormous and there was a unique bamboo forest that I wandered through. For a time I sat on a bench by the stream, breathed deeply and reflected on how fortunate I was to have this great experience with such interesting women….including my mom! I am blessed.

The afternoon was spent at Blarney Castle - a fascinating spot where I was transported back hundreds of years. Round and round up the spiral tower, I made my way up the 127 steps to the top, where to be sure, I kissed the Blarney Stone. (I thought the experience was delightful and wouldn't have missed it.) After pictures and acquiring the "gift of gab" (having kissed the Blarney stone), we were all ready to depart for our hotel in Killarney.

Dinner tonight was buffet style with choices that included salmon, duck, lamb, salads, roast potatoes & carrots. The desserts were amazing! Toffee cakes, meringues, fruits etc.

A special highlight for the evening of May 3 was a performance at the National Folk Theatre of Ireland. Founded in 1974, the Siamsa Tíre mission is to reflect Ireland's great wealth of music, dance and folklore on stage, through vibrant, colourful theatrical entertainment and to continue creating new folk theatre presentations, drawing on traditions and a rich cultural reservoir. Presented through the medium of theatre, using traditional song, dance and mime/movement the Siamsa Tíre performances continue to receive standing ovations both from home and worldwide audiences, captivated perhaps by the appeal of a way of life from times past and by the intriguing Celtic resonances that are so much part of Irish heritage and traditions.

May 4, 2008 - A visit to the charming town of Kenmare gave us the opportunity to visit the local shops, take a historical walk with Deidre, or relax over a pot of tea and home-made scones. Arriving back in Killarney, we hopped into the jaunting cars for a ride through Killarney National Park and a visit to Muckross House & Garden. Marlene, mom, myself, Susan and Deidre (our tour guide) were entertained by our driver the entire way. He waved to everyone and called them lovey - or daw-ling. He stopped frequently for us to take pictures of the Celtic cross, monkey puzzle tree or the amazing views of the lake.

We arrived at Muckross House and strolled through the beautiful gardens with Deidre. Once inside the house, we were given a private tour at 4 pm by Marie. The tour was wonderful and again - history came alive, as we saw how Victorians lived. (the rich ones, that is!) I can almost see Jane Eyre as governess. (minus the creepy attic that is!)

Tonight, Susan had a few mixers planned that gave the gals an opportunity to get to know one another, as well as win some great prizes. I had the opportunity to sit with Donna, who has been on many, many fascinating travel adventures - including China and Antarctica!

Our evening ended in traditional Irish fashion with a pint of Guinness and our favourite Irish ballads being played in the hotel pub.

May 5, 2008 - today we're off to the Dingle Peninsula. We stopped for photos and experienced some of the most stunning views on the Irish coastline. Postcard views with sheep perched on the side of the cliffs - endless stone fences protecting them from slipping into the sea. The water was the most amazing blue- a turquoise colour made even bluer with the contrast from the surf. A highlight of the drive was seeing the bee-hive homes- constructed B. C.

The scenery was just breath-taking. Everyone was snapping pictures, in awe of what we were seeing. It was another "pinch me" moment. Could this really be happening? Here we all are, on a perfect sunny day, gazing out to sea on the west coast of Ireland!

Dinner tonight was in Castlegregory - located in the dunes. Our restaurant was an out-of -the-way little gem. Throughout dinner we were entertained by two Irish musicians. Muirue (Moira) sang a haunting song of a mother whose catholic son becomes a minister. She sang the song in Irish and did it with such passion, we could feel her sadness. After our meal, we strolled down a country lane, in the sunshine, in Ireland, with the ocean lapping, the rabbits hopping about, the smell of the sea air and the incredible emerald hills off in the distance. Pinch me!

May 6, 2008 - following our ferry ride, we arrive at the Cliffs of Moher. The cliffs are over 200 meters from the ocean and go on for 8 km. They were magnificent! The day was sunny and warm - lucky for us! (Susan says, our sunny dispositions have influenced the beautiful weather we are having in Ireland!)

In the afternoon we travelled to Bunratty Castle, where we took a tour of the main castle hall. Again, a beautiful day for a stroll through the folk park at Bunratty. From Bunratty, we travelled to the little town of Adare. Our hotel, The Dunraven Arms is soooo quaint. We settle into our giant bedroom with oversized quilts. A bonus - our room overlooks a lovely garden!

Dinner tonight was a medieval feast at Bunratty. We were welcomed into the Great Hall and greeted with honey mead and music. The honey mead went down very smoothly- it also flowed freely! Following the reception we were ushered into the lower room - called the Main Guard. We were seated at a 22 foot table made from one solid oak tree, about 400 years ago. Our feast started off with soup - delicious and spicy - no spoons of course. Then an appetizer of ribs and in true medieval fashion -no forks - just a knife. This was followed by potatoes, broccoli and chicken - again very delicious. There was unlimited red and white wine, clinking of glasses, smiles and Slainte.

May 7, 2008 - Our last day in Ireland - boo hoo!

The day began with the sun shining brightly and the birds singing in the garden just outside our bedroom window. Life is great!

Our destination today is Kilkenny Castle. Kilkenny Castle was grand and luxurious, similar to Muckross House in some ways. The highlight of the castle was the Grand Hall. I think it was close to 50 feet long! A rich red throughout, it was adorned with family portraits. It was the most amazing Grand Hall I've seen so far.

Back in "Dublin town" for our last full day in Ireland we had an opportunity to do some last minute shopping. I loved strolling through the Dublin streets filled with locals and tourists. Walking back to the hotel was a snap as it is soooo centrally located. (just minutes from Grafton Street)

During the trip we had been challenged by Susan to write a poem about our Irish adventures. Tonight, we would read our poems and the score sheets would be tallied to reveal the winner. They were all fabulous poems that captured our trip so well.

Much to my GREAT surprise, I won the poetry contest. Actually I had won a beautiful book earlier in the trip called Irish Gardens. I'm hoping to be inspired to do a painting from all the wonderful pictures. As winner of the poetry contest, I won a wonderful pair of Waterford Crystal tea light candlesticks. Holy Hannah! The ring I found earlier in the year had brought me the luck of the Irish! A ring that I found in the parking lot had the Irish script written on the outside: "Is d'eirinn me". And in English, written on the inside of the ring, it read: "I am of Ireland."

"I am of Ireland" is different than "I am from Ireland". Leaving the emerald isle, I feel that I do have the Irish blood in me. (and the luck of the Irish!)

Our farewell dinner took place at the world famous Abbey Tavern. It was great fun and we were served a delicious meal (once again). The entertainment was enchanting and included Irish step/tap dancing and Irish pub tunes.

May 8, 2008 - As we say goodbye to Ireland, I'm so glad to have had this adventure once again with my mother. She and I have "connected". Very few people have this opportunity and I often hear women say they wish they had taken this opportunity when their mothers were alive. I am blessed.

By Elaine Bisson, Kanata, Ontario